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Microdermabrasion—not on my menu.
In a world obsessed with eternal youth, the pressure to seek out anti-aging treatments can be overwhelming. We're bombarded with images of flawless, ageless skin, fueling our desire for quick results and a fountain of youth. The anti-aging industry capitalizes on these aspirations, employing sneaky marketing tactics that promise miracles. From social media influencers to glossy magazine ads, we're inundated with promises of everlasting youth and flawless complexions.
But what if there are hidden truths behind one of the most popular anti-aging treatments?
Microdermabrasion has emerged as a go-to choice for its exfoliating and rejuvenating effects. Many believe it can turn back the clock on their skin, but beneath the marketing lies an inflammatory secret that many are unaware of. In this blog post, we delve into the dangers and risks of microdermabrasion, unmasking the hidden truths behind this seemingly miraculous anti-aging treatment.
What is Microdermabrasion?
Diamond-tip microdermabrasion is a specialized technique used to exfoliate the skin. Unlike traditional microdermabrasion, which utilizes crystals to remove dead skin cells, diamond-tip microdermabrasion employs a handheld device with a diamond-encrusted tip. The diamond tip abrades the skin's surface to theoretically promote cell turnover.
Microdermabrasion, touted for its exfoliating prowess, has become a go-to treatment in the quest for smoother, more youthful skin. However, beneath the allure lies a concerning reality: the lack of training and understanding around this procedure. Poor technique can result in cuts, scrapes, infection, and bruising. Not to mention that using an inappropriate level of suction can result in telangiectasia or "broken capillaries". Also, many estheticians perform microdermabrasion without fully understanding its negative impact on the skin.
The Biology of Skin
The thing is, it’s been said for years that the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis, is full of “dead skin cells” that need to be exfoliated to reveal “younger cells”, but science is proving that that is simply not the case.
The stratum corneum is a vital component of the skin's infrastructure. Contrary to popular belief, this layer is not a lifeless barrier but rather a dynamic structure that houses living cells. The stratum corneum acts as the roof of the skin's intricate architecture, providing essential protection against environmental stressors, pathogens, and moisture loss. Composed of flattened, cornified cells called corneocytes, it forms a robust barrier that regulates water loss and shields the underlying layers. Additionally, these corneocytes contain natural moisturizing factors, lipids, and enzymes that contribute to the skin's hydration and overall health.
Our stratum corneum and corneocytes also serve as messengers in cell-to-cell communication, which plays a vital role in maintaining a balanced and harmonious skin ecosystem. Within our skin, cells communicate through a complex network of signaling molecules, receptors, and intercellular connections. This communication system enables cells to coordinate various functions, including cellular turnover, repair, and immune responses. By effectively communicating with one another, skin cells ensure proper collagen production, hydration levels, and barrier function. Disruptions in cell-to-cell communication can result in imbalances, leading to issues such as impaired healing, compromised barrier function, and skin disorders.
To support this essential communication network, it is crucial to provide the skin with nourishing ingredients, antioxidants, and gentle care that promote optimal cell function and encourage a balanced and thriving skin ecosystem. Understanding the significance of the living stratum corneum unveils its crucial role in maintaining the integrity, function, and resilience of our skin.
Think of it like this: if your roof on your house was leaking, would your first thought be to sand it? Probably not.
For the same reason, I do not use harsh exfoliation techniques, including microdermabrasion. Especially living in a climate like ours in San Antonio, with high humidty and even higher UV levels, not to mention the extreme temperatures—our skin needs an intact, healthy barrier!
You can't just scrape it off and start over...
Over exfoliation, while often done with good intentions, can have detrimental effects on the health and appearance of our skin. Desquamation (our skin's natural process of shedding cells) is a beneficial process that helps maintain our skin's homeostasis, and it's a process that rarely, if ever, needs the assistance of exfoliation.
Exfoliation, when done excessively or too aggressively, disrupts the delicate balance of our skin. Over exfoliation can lead to a compromised skin barrier, causing increased sensitivity, dryness, redness, and irritation. It can strip away the natural oils that protect and moisturize the skin, leading to a disrupted acid mantle and imbalance in the skin's microbiome. Moreover, excessive exfoliation can hinder the natural cell turnover process, preventing the skin from renewing itself properly.
The stratum corneum is also home to our skin’s acid mantle which is essential for maintaining a healthy and balanced complexion. The acid mantle, a thin protective film on the skin's surface, consists of a combination of sebum, sweat, and natural acids. This slightly acidic pH level, typically around 4.5-5.5, plays a crucial role in supporting the skin's optimal functioning. The acid mantle acts as a barrier against harmful bacteria, pollutants, and irritants while also regulating moisture balance. Disrupting this delicate balance by using harsh cleansers, alkaline products, or excessive exfoliation can lead to imbalances in the skin's pH, leaving it vulnerable to dryness, sensitivity, and inflammation.
Microdermabrasion and other exfoliation techniques also impact our skin's microbiome. Our skin's microbiome is a vast and diverse community of microorganisms and is an integral part of its overall health and well-being. Composed of beneficial bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms, the microbiome forms a symbiotic relationship with our skin. These microorganisms help maintain the skin's natural balance, protect against harmful pathogens, and support its immune function. The microbiome also plays a crucial role in regulating inflammation, supporting wound healing, and enhancing the skin's barrier function. Factors such as excessive cleansing, harsh products, antibiotics, and environmental aggressors can disrupt the delicate balance of the skin's microbiome, leading to various skin concerns, including premature aging, acne, and sensitivity.
Unfortunately, many of these skin concerns are mistakenly treated with exfoliation instead of addressing the cause of the condition, which means you may see results, but they will be temporary.
Many times, people seek out treatments like microdermabrasion for its alleged anti-aging abilities. However, when it comes to anti-aging, focusing on barrier repair is a crucial aspect often overlooked. The skin's barrier plays a vital role in protecting against environmental aggressors, retaining moisture, and maintaining overall skin health. As we age, the barrier naturally weakens, leading to increased moisture loss, sensitivity, and a higher likelihood of fine lines and wrinkles. To counteract these effects, it is essential to prioritize barrier repair in your skincare routine.
Alas, there's a better way!
This is where the concept of Corneotherapy comes in.
Corneotherapy, a holistic approach to skincare, offers a wealth of benefits in promoting overall skin health. This methodology focuses on restoring and maintaining the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis. By prioritizing the integrity of this protective barrier, Corneotherapy aims to optimize skin function and address various concerns at their root. Through the use of specialized products and treatments, Corneotherapy aims to repair the skin barrier, regulate moisture levels, and enhance the skin's natural defenses.
Corneotherapists support alternatives to microdermabrasion, including enzyme exfoliation. Enzyme exfoliation is a gentle and effective method of promoting skin renewal and revealing a brighter complexion. Enzymes are proteins that act as catalysts, accelerating chemical reactions in the body. In skincare, specific enzymes derived from natural sources such as fruits, papaya, pineapple, or pumpkin are used to break down the bonds between dead skin cells, facilitating their removal. Unlike physical exfoliants, enzyme exfoliation works in a more controlled and targeted manner, selectively dissolving the dull and dead skin cells without causing micro-tears or irritation. Enzyme exfoliation is particularly beneficial for sensitive skin types or those with conditions such as rosacea or acne, as it provides a gentle yet effective exfoliation without harsh scrubbing.
Additionally, choosing homecare products that support the skin's barrier and ecosystem can eliminate the need to exfoliate by helping it reach homeostasis. Ingredients like niacinamide, panthenol, and botanical extracts are commonly utilized to support skin repair and renewal. Consulting with a Corneotherapy-trained esthetician is recommended to develop a personalized skincare routine tailored to individual needs. By embracing Corneotherapy, individuals can nourish and fortify their skin from within, promoting a healthy, balanced, and resilient complexion.
Corneotherapists (like me!) also encourage making lifestyle adjustments for the health of the skin. Here are some key factors to consider:
Hydration: Adequate hydration is vital for skin health. Ensure you drink enough water throughout the day to keep your skin hydrated from within. Hyaluronic acid-based skincare products can also help retain moisture.
Nutrition: A balanced diet rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals is essential for skin health. Incorporate fresh fruits, vegetables, lean proteins, and healthy fats into your meals to provide your skin with the necessary nutrients it needs to thrive.
Stress Management: Chronic stress can take a toll on your skin, leading to breakouts, dullness, and inflammation. Practice stress management techniques such as meditation, deep breathing exercises, or engaging in activities you enjoy to reduce stress levels and promote a healthy complexion.
Quality Sleep: Getting sufficient, quality sleep is crucial for skin rejuvenation and repair. Aim for 7-8 hours of uninterrupted sleep each night to allow your skin to regenerate and maintain its vitality.
By incorporating these lifestyle changes into your routine, you can support your skin's health and resilience from the inside out. Remember, achieving a glowing complexion is a holistic endeavor that requires a balanced approach encompassing skincare, nutrition, stress management, and restful sleep.
It's time to stop relying on fad treatments and to explore alternative approaches to achieving healthy, radiant skin. By understanding the potential risks and drawbacks of microdermabrasion, such as its inflammatory nature and the potential disruption to the skin's barrier, we can make informed decisions about our skincare choices. Instead of solely relying on exfoliation, consider incorporating strategies that prioritize barrier repair, such as using barrier-friendly products and embracing Corneotherapy principles. Don't forget the power of lifestyle changes, including staying hydrated, nourishing your body with a balanced diet, managing stress, and getting quality sleep.
While DIY skincare routines are fantastic, there's something special about booking a professional skincare treatment like the personalized services offered by Triad Skincare, in San Antonio, Texas. Estheticians trained in modern techniques can provide personalized recommendations and perform treatments tailored to your unique skin needs. So, why not treat yourself to an educational and pampering experience?
Remember, the path to healthy and vibrant skin is multifaceted, encompassing skincare, lifestyle choices, and professional expertise. With the right knowledge and approach, you can unlock the secrets to long-lasting skin health and age gracefully.
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References:
National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). The Skin Microbiome: Impact of Modern Environments on Skin Ecology, Barrier Integrity, and Systemic Immune Programming. Retrieved from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9462764/
National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2020). Microbiome: A Paradigm Shift in Dermatology. Retrieved from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7099034/
National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2011). Corneotherapy: A Renaissance in Dermatology. Retrieved from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3225536/