Aging: My Perspective.
As someone approaching 40 (with seemingly rapid speed) AND as someone who works in the beauty industry: I understand the pressure to stay looking young. I also understand and experience the constant advertising and messaging around anti-aging products and how confusing it is to decide what products and ingredients are actually beneficial and effective…not to mention safe.
Aging is an emotionally charged topic and experience. It isn’t easy to look back at our youth and ‘what could have been’ and it’s not necessarily easy to look ahead… . Our culture has painted aging as being a downfall or weakness. What do you mean you have crow’s feet? Laugh lines? Ewwwww. Don’t get me started about how society treats humans of a certain age in the workplace or on the road.
From my perspective, aging is a privilege. Being able to collect the experiences that give me those laugh lines is a gift! I’m grateful for everything I am learning while I’m on this giant rock, hurtling through space. I hope to live a long life and to morph into a wise Crone, complete with plenty of experience lines and sage advice. I share this because, although this blog is about “anti-aging,” I’m actually very pro-aging and the real topic of this blog is about skin health and maintaining a visage that reflects your inner, glowing self.
I want to help you create a skincare routine that makes you feel beautiful and taken care of!
What Causes Skin Aging?
Before we dive into the ingredients, I’d like to briefly talk about what happens as our skin ages and define what even makes an ingredient “anti-aging.”
There are two types of aging:
Intrinsic, or chronological aging: the natural, genetically predetermined biological processes that take place over time.
Extrinsic aging: The environmental and lifestyle factors that impact a person’s long-term well-being and appearance in aging.
There isn’t much that can be done to alter the process of chronological aging, we are all going to age. However, we can alter our extrinsic aging as that includes our diet, lifestyle choices, how we manage stress, and what we put on and in our bodies.
What is Anti-Aging Skincare?
So, what qualifies as “anti-aging” skincare? In general, anti-aging ingredients are active ingredients in products that can help slow down signs of aging. They can improve skin texture and tone, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and protect against environmental damage. It’s important to note, however, that the FDA does not regulate claims made on cosmetic products, so it’s pretty easy for the ‘anti-aging’ label to get put on just about anything.
When I want to try a new product or purchase something with a specific trending ingredient, I like to do my research first and I want to encourage you to do the same!
My current favorite website for learning about ingredients is: https://incidecoder.com/ . It’s very easy to use and the ingredients are explained simply, without a bunch of chemistry jargon.
Additionally, I like to check out The National Library of Medicine https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/ to see what sort of testing has been conducted on varying ingredients and to ensure that there isn’t evidence of adverse reactions.
Finally, I always scope out CosIng, The European Commission on Cosmetics https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/ because Europe is more stringent about restricting ingredients that show evidence of being hormone disruptors or causing other side effects including skin barrier dysfunction or respiratory issues.
I want to empower you to be an ingredient sleuth! It’s much easier to navigate the world of skincare when you have a better understanding of what ingredients you’re using, why you’re using them, and how they work together.
My Favorite Anti-Aging Skincare Ingredients:
Without further ado, here are my favorite anti-aging ingredients:
Sunscreen. Yep this is the G.O.A.T. (greatest of all time). It isn’t glamorous, it doesn’t come in a beautiful container, but I promise you: it is the key to maintaining healthy, youthful-looking skin! Let me drop a bomb on you: 90% of visible skin aging is due to sun exposure. NINETY PERCENT. Unprotected sun exposure breaks down collagen and elastin in our skin, causing sagging, drooping, and the formation of wrinkles. Additionally, unprotected sun exposure damages our melanocytes (the cells that produce pigment) leading to dark spots (hyperpigmentation) and can also cause hypopigmentation, the little white spots that often happen on our arms and hands as we age (SkinCancer.org). Unprotected sun exposure also dehydrates the skin, leaving it looking leathery or crepey. Then, there’s the elephant in the room: Skin Cancer. Skin cancer is the most common form of cancer and it can be insidious. The signs or symptoms are systemic, meaning lesions can appear anywhere on your body, even in places that have never gotten sun exposure (Cleveland Clinic). It doesn’t matter if you choose chemical or mineral, luxury or drugstore, sunscreen is just absolutely necessary if you want to maintain your skin’s health. Don’t worry, I’m prepared to write a whole ‘nother blog post about the differences in chemical and mineral sunscreen, but in the meantime just SPF to the moon and back and don’t even think about skipping your hands and arms!
Peptides. Peptides in skincare are short chains of amino acids, which are the building blocks of proteins like collagen and elastin that keep our skin firm and smooth. When applied to the skin, peptides signal the body to produce more collagen, helping to reduce wrinkles and improve skin texture and elasticity. There are also different types of peptides that can signal cells to different things (Skibska). For example, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2 stimulates skin immune defenses and encourages skin regeneration while Acetyl Octapeptide-3 is said to influence muscle contractions, relaxing the face and reducing fine lines. There is a lot of promising research into peptides and I have seen significant improvement in my skin using them. Just be sure to look into what peptides are included in the formula you choose and also what concentrations they’re in and what supporting ingredients are included!
Vitamin C. There are a lot of antioxidants that are great for your skin, but I think Vitamin C deserves its own place on this list! Vitamin C encourages collagen production, fades pigmentation and dark spots, and protects skin from free radicals (INCIDecoder.com). Also, when applied under sunscreen, Vitamin C improves the efficacy of sunscreen! One of the things I’m most insecure about with my own skin, is the sun damage and I’m combatting that by using a Vitamin C serum twice a day. It’s important to see what type of Vitamin C is being used in the formula you choose, as some forms are unstable (they’ll change colors, smell weird, and can irritate your skin). My favorite forms of Vitamin C are Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and I stay away from L-Ascorbic Acid as it isn’t as stable and can cause irritation!
Niacinamide. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) boasts a host of benefits for the skin including wrinkle refining, dark spot fading, skin barrier improving, hydration, and improving conditions including acne and rosacea (Wohlrab). Niacinamide is a great anti-aging ingredient because it boosts collagen production in the skin and its ability to hydrate the skin offers a plumping effect. Niacinamide is well-tolerated by most skin types including sensitive skin and has been shown to decrease inflammation. Niacinamide is also an easy ingredient to find at all price points!
Hyaluronic Acid. As we age, our skin produces less sebum and natural moisture factors which can leave skin feeling dry and crepey. Enter: hyaluronic acid. This ingredient binds water to our skin and can help our active ingredients to penetrate deeper into the dermis. Hyaluronic acid is a lightweight super hydrator and it’s an easy to find ingredient. There is some research suggesting that using low or ultra-low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can induce inflammation in the skin, which is why it's important to source your products from reputable companies. I also came across this article that explains the varying weights and how they’re listed on product labels along with their benefits. It’s also important to know that hyaluronic acid can evaporate quickly, and since it acts like a sponge, it can take your skin’s moisture with it, so be sure to apply a quality moisturizer on top of hyaluronic acid serums for the best results.
Retinoids. Retinol, a derivative of Vitamin A, is one of the most effective anti-aging ingredients available. It works by increasing cell turnover, stimulating collagen production, and smoothing fine lines and wrinkles, making it a powerful ally in the fight against aging (Racho). However, retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so it’s crucial to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin from UV damage while using this ingredient. Since I live in San Antonio, Texas, I even go a step further and avoid using any retinoids between May and September—that UV Index is no joke! Additionally, retinol is not recommended for pregnant women, as high doses of Vitamin A can pose risks to fetal development, so be sure to check with your doctor if you’re pregnant or planning to become pregnant about using retinoids. It’s also very important to start with the lower concentrations and incorporate the products slowly to prevent irritation. Retinoids come in many different forms including Retinol, which is on the more potent side and Retinaldehyde, which is more mild for sensitive skin types! One more thing! Retinoids aren’t stable when exposed to UV rays, so they are best applied at night.
Embrace Aging with Confidence
Aging is an inevitable part of life, but how we care for our skin can make all the difference in how we look and feel as the years go by. By understanding the science behind these powerful anti-aging ingredients and incorporating them into a consistent skincare routine, you can maintain the health and vitality of your skin, allowing your natural beauty to shine through at every age.
Remember, the goal isn’t to fight aging, but to support your skin in a way that helps you feel confident and radiant. Embrace the changes that come with time, and use the tools at your disposal to nurture your skin. After all, the lines on your face are a testament to a life well-lived, and taking care of yourself is a form of self-love that will keep you glowing from the inside out.
If you have any questions about the ingredients mentioned or need help creating a personalized skincare routine, don’t hesitate to reach out. I’m here to help you on your journey to ageless beauty, where your skin reflects the vibrant, confident person you are.
About the Author
I'm Regina Thomas, I'm a licensed Esthetician and Skin Therapist in San Antonio, Texas. I have been a practicing skincare professional for 8 years and I specialize in caring for sensitive, mature, and acneic skin types with a gentle, holistic approach.
In my free time, I love to read both fiction and non-fiction and I love to be outdoors (even in the ridiculous South Texas heat!).
If you're in the San Antonio area, I would love the opportunity to provide you with a facial experience! You can click here to book online.
Get in touch: TriadSkincare@gmail.com
Works Cited
“Ascorbic Acid (Explained + Products).” Incidecoder.com, incidecoder.com/ingredients/ascorbic-acid.
Clinic, Mayo. “Skin Cancer - Symptoms and Causes.” Mayo Clinic, 6 Dec. 2022, www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/skin-cancer/symptoms-causes/syc-20377605#:~:text=Skin%20cancer%20%E2%80%94%20the%20abnormal%20growth.
Grabel, Arielle. “Photoaging: What You Need to Know about the Other Kind of Aging - the Skin Cancer Foundation.” The Skin Cancer Foundation, 10 Jan. 2019, www.skincancer.org/blog/photoaging-what-you-need-to-know/.
Racho, Janeca. “Guide to the Different Types of Retinoids.” Dermstore, 19 July 2019, www.dermstore.com/blog/types-of-retinoids-benefits/.
Skibska, Agnieszka, and Renata Perlikowska. “Signal Peptides - Promising Ingredients in Cosmetics.” Current Protein & Peptide Science, vol. 22, no. 10, Oct. 2021, pp. 716–728, https://doi.org/10.2174/1389203722666210812121129.
Wohlrab, Johannes, and Daniela Kreft. “Niacinamide - Mechanisms of Action and Its Topical Use in Dermatology.” Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, vol. 27, no. 6, 2014, pp. 311–315, https://doi.org/10.1159/000359974.
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